| laura, me, and carmen |
it went decently well. i was too eager at first and went hard for a wave pretty early on and got a little pummeled..haha. i then got a bit scared and took it easier. just getting the feel of the waves and and catching a few on my knees. the ocean is a beautiful beautiful place but also very unforgiving. it does what it will.
after, laura gave me her spare longboard to use for the time being which i was not expecting and we had a nice cruise after we surfed. soooooo nice.
but that's the thing i am really noticing about the people here, they are so generous and willing to do almost anything for you. i've already been really blessed by their generosity. it's inspiring and challenging me to follow in their footsteps.
| just siftin around |
| fish and chips wrapped in newspaper |
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