Wednesday, 30 January 2013

first surf & kiwi ways

on tuesday i went for my first surf here in NZ. logan, carmen's boyfriend is lending me a wetsuit for while i'm here and it's just sooo much better for surfing. because you can stay out for much longer and nothing falls off!
laura, me, and carmen

it went decently well. i was too eager at first and went hard for a wave pretty early on and got a little pummeled..haha. i then got a bit scared and took it easier. just getting the feel of the waves and and catching a few on my knees. the ocean is a beautiful beautiful place but also very unforgiving. it does what it will.

after, laura gave me her spare longboard to use for the time being which i was not expecting and we had a nice cruise after we surfed. soooooo nice.

but that's the thing i am really noticing about the people here, they are so generous and willing to do almost anything for you. i've already been really blessed by their generosity. it's inspiring and challenging me to follow in their footsteps.
just siftin around
after the skate we went to get fish and chips and eat them on the beach. however, conveniently i left my purse behind at the table we were at...and noticed minutes later...i started to panic but carmen said she was sure it'd still be there. so we went back and sure enough a group of kids sitting at a table near by had tried to get my attention but it was too late and they turned it into the restaurant. super relieved. i was able to enjoy the food and the surfers catching the waves. and hope that one day my family will be a beach family :)

fish and chips wrapped in newspaper






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